Falafel: The Complete Guide to Making Crispy, Fluffy Falafel from Scratch

Falafel is one of the most beloved street foods in the Middle East and beyond — and one of the most frequently disappointing when made incorrectly. The difference between perfect falafel (crispy exterior, bright green interior, fluffy texture, complex flavor) and mediocre falafel (dense, gray, heavy) comes down almost entirely to one rule: use dried chickpeas, not canned. Here is the complete method.

The Rule: Dried Chickpeas Only

Canned chickpeas have been cooked. Falafel requires raw, soaked chickpeas. Cooked chickpeas produce dense, heavy falafel that falls apart when frying; raw soaked chickpeas, when ground, contain enough starch to hold together and produce the characteristic fluffy interior texture. This is the mistake most home falafel recipes make when they call for canned chickpeas.

Soak 300g (about 2 cups) dried chickpeas in cold water for 18 to 24 hours. They will roughly double in size. Drain completely before using.

The Recipe

Combine in a food processor: the drained soaked chickpeas; 1 medium onion, roughly chopped; 6 garlic cloves; 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves; 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves; 1.5 teaspoons cumin; 1.5 teaspoons coriander; 1 teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon cayenne; 1/2 teaspoon baking soda; 1 tablespoon lemon juice; 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour or chickpea flour.

Process in pulses until the mixture is finely ground but not a paste — it should look like coarse, slightly damp breadcrumbs. If you process it smooth, it will be too dense. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour minimum, or overnight. The rest allows flavors to meld and the mixture to firm slightly.

Forming and Frying

Heat at least 3 inches of neutral oil (vegetable or sunflower) to 175°C (350°F) in a heavy pot. Use a falafel scoop, two spoons, or your hands (dampened with water) to form balls or patties about 4 cm across. Do not pack too tightly — looser-formed falafel has better interior texture.

Fry in batches of 4 to 5 at a time, 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until deeply golden-brown. Do not crowd the pot, which lowers the oil temperature and produces soggy falafel. Drain on paper towels. Properly fried falafel should be richly brown, not just pale golden.

Serving

Serve immediately — falafel is best within minutes of frying. Wrap in pita with: tahini sauce (tahini, lemon, garlic, water); fresh tomato and cucumber; pickled vegetables; and fresh herbs. The combination of hot, crispy falafel with cold, acidic pickles, creamy tahini, and fresh vegetables is one of the great flavor experiences in street food.

For more Middle Eastern recipes, see our hummus guide and mezze spread guide. For scaling this recipe for a crowd, use our recipe converter.